Broken garage door spring? Same-day torsion and extension spring replacement, done safely.

A wound torsion spring holds a lot of stored energy, enough to lift a few hundred pounds of door. Unwinding or winding one means inserting steel winding bars into the spring’s winding cone and turning it a quarter turn at a time against that tension. If a bar slips, or someone uses a screwdriver instead of a properly sized bar, the cone can spin freely and throw the bar with enough force to break bones or cause head injuries.

Extension springs carry their own risk. Without a containment cable running through the coils, a snapped extension spring can whip across the garage. Loosening the wrong set screw, or removing the bottom bracket with the cable still under tension, is how most DIY spring injuries happen. Big-box springs are also sold in generic sizes that rarely match the door exactly, which leaves it out of balance and wears out the opener.

A spring isn’t just a spring. We measure wire size (for example .225, .243 or .250), inside diameter (most residential springs are 1¾ or 2 inch), overall length, and whether the spring is left- or right-wound. We then check those figures against the door’s actual weight, height and drum size. Getting this right is what makes a door stay put halfway open instead of drifting up or down.

On two-spring doors, we replace both springs together. Springs installed at the same time wear at the same rate, so when one breaks the other is usually close behind. Replacing both keeps the lift even and saves you a second service call a few months later.

Coachella Valley garages regularly pass 115°F in summer, and that heat dries out spring lubrication fast. Dry coils rub against each other, build friction, and fatigue sooner. Fine desert dust sticks to old grease and makes the problem worse. Oil-tempered and powder-coated springs, along with a light coat of garage door lubricant at each tune-up, help springs reach their rated cycle life.